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Planning a trip to Albania? Here's my 5-day itinerary covering the northern mountains, from Theth to Shkoder to Tirana.
I stumbled on Albania while I was in Turkey. I'd already visited all the renowned Turkish cities, and honestly, most of the other ones felt similar. Then I found out I could enter Albania visa-free, and there were direct flights from Istanbul. I'd heard about the mountains there (they call them the Albanian Alps), and I knew the country had fascinating history and stories to tell.
The decision took me 10 minutes. This would be my next destination!
Five days later, I get why people rave about Albania. This place surprised me in ways Turkey did, but with way fewer crowds and better scenery.
This 5 day Albania itinerary covers the northern part of the country: mountain villages, historic cities, and landscapes that actually live up to the hype. If you're into hiking, history, or just want to explore somewhere that isn't packed with tourists yet, keep reading.
Here's exactly what I did, what worked, what I'd change, and the real costs so you can plan your own Albania travel itinerary.
Getting There: Airport and Transportation
You'll fly into Tirana Airport. It's small, straightforward, and way less chaotic than many European airports. Here's the thing though: don't make the same mistake I did!
I went from the airport to Shkoder first, then to Theth, then back through Shkoder to Tirana. Looking back, I should've gone straight to Theth from the airport. Would've saved me time and hassle.
The smarter route: Airport → Theth (2 days) → Shkoder (1.5-2 days) → Tirana (1 day). This way you're not backtracking.
Taxi costs: I paid $55 for a taxi from the airport to Shkoder. When you factor in the time saved versus dealing with multiple bus transfers, it was worth it. Most hotels can book taxis for you, they'll just call the airport.
SIM card tip: If your phone doesn't support eSIM, grab one at the Vodafone store in the airport. Tourist package runs about $20 and will last your whole trip.
Quick Context: Albania's History and Culture
Albania's a fascinating place. It was the world's first atheist state back in 1967, but since communism fell in 1991, it's become pretty secular. Muslims and Christians living side by side, no issues.
The country spent nearly 400 years under Ottoman rule and had a brief stint with Italian occupation. You can see both influences everywhere. Italian food is huge here, and people say the pizza rivals anything you'd get in Italy. From what I tried, I believe it. The coffee culture is strong too. As someone who takes coffee seriously, this was a highlight.
You'll also notice these concrete bunkers scattered everywhere. The dictator Enver Hoxha built around 750,000 of them, convinced Albania was about to be invaded. Spoiler: it wasn't. But the bunkers are still there, and some have been turned into museums and art installations.
My First Impression of Albania
The people made this trip. I'm talking cheerful, welcoming, and just genuinely friendly. Walking around, locals would smile, wave, and sometimes photobomb my pictures (in the best way).
English is widely spoken, which made everything easier. Unlike Turkey, where I struggled with language barriers, communication in Albania was smooth.
Here's my honest take: Albania does everything Turkey does, but with fewer crowds and better scenery. If you've been to Turkey and loved it, put Albania on your list.
Getting Around: Do You Need a Car?
I didn't rent a car, and I'm glad I made that call. The roads between cities are narrow and winding, some in rough shape. Since I was there to relax, not stress about navigating mountain roads in a foreign country, I let my hotels handle transport.
Every hotel I stayed at arranged minibuses for me. Between cities, within cities, all of it. Easy and stress-free. Cost a bit more than doing it myself, but the convenience was worth it.
Taxi situation: Meters were always on. Uber doesn't exist, but local apps like UPS Taxi and Speed Taxi work fine. You'll also see locals offering rides in private cars, which seems to be a thing.
Money Talk: Currency and Real Costs
One dollar equals about 82 lek (as of January 2026, but rates change).
What things actually cost:
- Small water bottle: 50 lek (~$0.60)
- Pizza: 500-700 lek (~$6-9)
- Mixed grill meal: 1,500 lek (~$18)
- Komani Lake trip: $25-30
- Museum entry (Bunk'Art): $11
- Hotel per night: $40-70 depending on location
You can pay in euros or dollars almost everywhere. They use Google's exchange rate, which is fair. But seriously, carry cash. Many places don't take cards.
My 5-Day Budget Breakdown:
- Accommodation: $280 (mix of guesthouses and mid-range hotels)
- Food: $180 (local restaurants, cafés, some nicer meals)
- Activities: $70 (Blue Eye hike, Komani Lake, castle entry, Bunk'Art)
- Transport: $135 (airport taxi, minibuses between cities, local taxis)
- Total: Around $665
This doesn't include flights. Your costs might be more if you're staying in nicer places.
5-Day Albania Itinerary: The North
Albania tourism splits into two experiences: beach towns in the south, mountains in the north. I'm a mountain guy, so I went north. If beaches are your thing, you'd do a completely different route.
My itinerary hit three spots: Theth, Shkoder, and Tirana. Here's how I'd do it differently knowing what I know now.
Days 1-2: Theth
Alright, let's talk about Theth. This place is the real reason you're coming to Albania's north.
Theth sits in the Albanian Alps (different from THE Alps, just FYI). It's a small mountain village surrounded by green peaks, waterfalls, and trails. Hands down, this was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been in my life!
Would I go back? 100%. This isn't one of those "nice to see once" destinations. Theth captivated me from the moment I arrived, and I knew I would have to return someday.
Getting there: Minibus from Shkoder costs about $12. Your hotel can arrange this. The drive takes around 2 hours on winding mountain roads, but the views make it worth it.
Where I Stayed: Guest House Flodisa ⭐⭐⭐⭐
I couldn't have asked for a better location! It's right in the center with stunning views, as you can see in the picture.
This charming place is a family business, managed by two brothers and their mom. The mom prepares a fresh breakfast each morning, giving a warm, homely feel to the experience. And the coffee? It's so good, you'll get hooked! They also offer dinner upon request, and for those who need it, they have halal options.
Fair warning: it's basic. Don't expect luxury. But for location and hospitality, this place nailed it.
What to Do in Theth
1. Just Be There
Honestly, you don't need to plan every minute. Theth is one of those places where sitting with a coffee and watching the mountains is enough. The whole area feels like a nature reserve, because it actually is one, called Theth National Park. There's a river running through, waterfalls nearby, and green everywhere.
2. Theth Waterfall and Church
Once you've settled in, take an easy hour-long hike to Theth Waterfall. The trail is simple, and you'll pass through some gorgeous scenery. There's a little café halfway up where you can grab a drink and catch your breath.
On the way back, stop by the Theth Church (Kisha e Thethit). It's small, historic, and looks even better in person.
3. Reconciliation Tower (Kulla of Theth)
Ten minutes from the church, you'll find this tower with a wild backstory. If someone committed murder, they could hide here for two weeks while the village tried to mediate and prevent revenge killings. Dark history, but fascinating.
4. Blue Eye Hike
This was the highlight of my time in Theth. Ask your hotel to arrange it the day before. A car picks you up with a small group, drops you at the trailhead, and you hike to this crystal-clear mountain pool.
The water is freezing. Like, truly freezing. Most people just dip their feet. I went for a plunge and immediately regretted the decision. Worth it for the story though.
The hike is moderate. Not too hard. Perfect for most travelers.
Longer hikes: If you want more, there are 5-6 hour treks up to mountain peaks, or even a 9-hour hike from Theth to Valbona (if you're continuing north and don't mind carrying your stuff).
Honest Take: Theth is worth every bit of the journey getting there. The rough roads, the long drive, all of it. This was my favorite stop in Albania. If you're short on time and can only pick one place outside Tirana, make it Theth. The only downside? It's remote, so if you're looking for nightlife or fancy restaurants, this isn't your spot. But if you want mountains, fresh air, and genuinely beautiful landscapes, this is it.
Days 3-4: Shkoder
Shkoder is one of Europe's oldest cities, and it's got personality. Bikes everywhere, Mercedes cars lining the streets, and Italian restaurants on every corner.
Getting there: Bus from Tirana to Shkoder is $5. Minibus from Theth to Shkoder is $12.
Shkoder gives off classic European city vibes. It's charming in a low-key way. The bike thing is real, locals of all ages cruise around on bicycles, some with flower baskets. It's like a Balkan version of Amsterdam.
The Mercedes situation is funny. I feel there are more Mercedes in Shkoder than in Germany. Old models, new models, everything in between.
Food: Italian food dominates. I ate at Aroma and Vila Bekteshi, both were excellent. If you like Italian, you'll be happy here.
Where I Stayed: Hotel Chicago ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Right in the center, middle of the tourist walk, perfect location. Staff was super helpful with organizing trips and answering questions. Best value for money.
What to Do in Shkoder
1. Shkoder Center
Walk through the city center, check out the Ebu Bekr Mosque (the most famous in the area), and see the Mother Teresa statue. She was Albanian, won the Nobel Peace Prize for her humanitarian work.
The Tourist Walk is lined with cafés and restaurants. At night, the end of the walk turns into a social hub. Sometimes there's live music or small gatherings. It's where everyone hangs out.
2. Rozafa Castle
If you get to Shkoder early, hit the castle first. It's old, historic, built as the city's defense. Sits on a high hill with views that stretch for miles. There's a small restaurant at the top where you can relax and take it all in.
3. Komani Lake and Shala River Trip
Book this through your hotel the night before. A minibus picks you up early in the morning and takes you to the boat departure point.
If you're driving yourself instead, heads up: the entrance to the boat area goes through a narrow, congested tunnel. It can get tricky with heavy traffic. Honestly, it's easier to just park before the tunnel and walk the rest of the way.
The whole trip costs $25-30, including round-trip transport and the boat ride. This is considered one of the best boat trips in the world, and I can see why. You cruise across Komani Lake for two hours, surrounded by mountains and crystal-clear water. The lake is one of the world's largest artificial lakes, created to connect remote mountain communities.
The boat drops you at Shala River. You get two hours to explore, relax, or just take in the scenery. There's a small café where you can grab a drink, kayak rentals if you're feeling active, or you can just wander along the riverbank and soak in the lush greenery.
Planning to swim? The water is icy cold. Like, so cold they literally use it to chill drinks!
This was worth the trip to Shkoder alone. Best $30 I spent in Albania.
Honest Take: Shkoder surprised me. The city itself has charm without trying too hard!
Day 5: Tirana
Finish your 5 day Albania itinerary in Tirana. It's the capital, modern, clean, and easy to walk around. The locals are friendly, the city has good energy, and it's a nice way to wind down before flying out.
One day in Tirana is enough to see the main sights. Or you can stay an extra day and hit the cable car on the morning of day six, it'll be a good call.
Where I Stayed: Hotel Town House ⭐⭐⭐
Five-minute walk from the center. Staff was friendly and helpful. No complaints.
What to Do in Tirana
1. Skanderbeg Square and City Walk
Start at Skanderbeg Square. Big open space, statue of Skanderbeg in the middle, locals skating and hanging out. Right next to it is the main tourist walk, lined with nice cafés and restaurants.
You'll see statues of famous Albanians along the way, adding a touch of history to your stroll.
2. Bunk'Art
Three minutes from the center, you'll find Bunk'Art, a museum inside one of the massive bunkers. It's all about Albania's fight for independence and struggle against occupation. Entry is $11.
The museum itself is worth the visit if you're into history.
3. Tirana’s Cable Car
The cable car takes you up Mount Dajti. Views of the city and surrounding area are solid. At the top, you can explore Dajti National Park, grab food at a mountain restaurant, or just enjoy the scenery.
Getting to the Airport
Once you've wrapped up your tour of Tirana, behind the theater in Skanderbeg Square, there's a bus to the airport. Runs at specific times, costs 300 lek (under $4). Way cheaper than a taxi. Check the schedule, pick a time that gets you there before your flight.
Albania delivered. If you follow this itinerary, you'll get the mountains of Theth, the charm of Shkoder, and just enough of Tirana to wrap things up. The whole trip works.
Got questions about logistics, costs, or anything else about this Albania travel itinerary? Drop a comment below. I've also got more travel guides and itineraries coming. Follow me on Instagram @itsbykaly or subscribe to my newsletter to stay updated on where I'm headed next. Safe travels and see you on the next journey!
